If you’ve climbed at Climb Nashville East in recent weeks, you may have noticed some changes taking place. The drop ceiling in the yoga room was removed, the systems wall on the mezzanine was ripped out and now, the yoga room is covered in sawdust, and there are new rafters that run from floor to ceiling. You may have also noticed some rough looking dudes with sharp tools wandering in and out from behind the closed doors, moving to and from cigarette breaks. You may have thought to yourselves, “Hmm, I wonder if the Big Wigs are installing a hooka lounge?” Alas! The changes taking place at East are not leading to a smoky, melon scented room with plush pillows, sitars, and fine spirits, but more towards something that will resemble the lab in which Wolverine was born...minus the bath tub.
In all seriousness, we are VERY excited to be transforming our current yoga space at the East gym to a climbing training room that will cater to our intermediate and advanced level climbers, our fitness classes, and the Nashville climbing community as a whole.
Why the changes?
Our climbing community has long been asking for more climbing training options on the East side. There have been a few tools available to the East community in the past, but with the limited space in the gym, we were unable to make them as great as we would like. It takes an ample amount of space to provide the training options members have been craving, so converting the yoga room allows us the most flexibility and will provide the community with the best training area possible.
What is happening to the yoga and fitness classes that take place in that room?
Don’t worry, they aren’t going anywhere…kind of. We will continue to offer yoga classes at East in the available space in the training room and on the mezzanine. There is also huge demand for fitness classes at East and with these changes, we hope to provide more of them and a greater variety of classes moving forward.
What exactly is going in the training room?
Let’s take a look at what’s being built…
The Moon Board is a training tool designed by climbing legend, Ben Moon, meant to challenge intermediate and advanced level climbers by providing boulder problems created and shared by climbers all over the world. The Moon Board is built using specific sizes, angles, and holds so that a climber in Nashville, TN can climb on the exact same problems Chris Sharma is climbing on in Spain.
Climbers all over the world create and submit problems to the Moon website and phone app so that climbers all over the world can sample the exact same boulder problem. Meant to challenge a climber’s power, finger strength, and technique, Moon problems are notoriously difficult! Check out this video on the Moon board and download the Moon Board app for an endless supply of boulder problems to train on!
The training wall will be a 40 degree wall covered in holds of various sizes, styles, positions. Catered to all climbing abilities, this wall is available for you to improve upon your weaknesses, build power and finger strength, and make up fun boulder problems for your friends to session on! You can expect hundreds of holds to choose from of all styles, both great and terrible foot options, and endless possibilities for rad moves to challenge yourself on.
What’s the difference between this wall and the Moon Board? The training wall will have many more hold styles and sizes to choose from and has the potential to be reset on rare occasions. We hope to provide climbers with resources to create and share their own boulder problems with other members of the Nashville community, just like Moon Board users do with the rest of the globe!
The first campus board was designed in 1988 by climbing legend Wolfgang Gullich in preparation for his ascent of the world’s first 9a (5.14d) route Action Directe. Action Directe is an extremely powerful route demanding many footless moves on monos and shallow pockets. The training tool gained popularity and is now used by climbers all over the world to build power, finger strength, and contact strength (the ability to hit a hold and stick to it!) We will have three different rung (hold) sizes on our campus board plus other options for campus training.
Watch this inspiring video of Rich Simpson training just like Wolfgang for Action Directe…
Want to improve your finger strength? We will have various hangboards available to train on. Improve your grip strength and power by performing various drills such as dead hangs, off-set pull-ups, and lock-offs. We will have beginner, intermediate, and advanced boards available so you can customize your training and improve your strength on specific hold types.
We will also have various other training tools for you to use including gymnastic rings, Atomik balls, bars, weights, and a couch. Use these tools to build power and core strength or stay healthy by strengthening your opposition muscles! We hope you love all the changes we are making and see huge gains from the tools soon to be at your disposal! Until they are ready, build the psych by watching these inspiring training videos…
Jan Hojer fighting weakness…
Magnus Midtbo taking a break from Norwegian whaling to train…
Dani Andrada cheats by eating only Spanish meat and cheese