Crage Name: Denny Cove
Route Name: Home Cooked 5.12d
Best Feature: The route is a nice, consistent, slightly overhung angle for 80ft with no distinguishable holds or features. You just have to get up there and find them!
What Makes It Special: The movement and consistency of difficulty on this route are superb! Not a lot of fluff on this one. Plus, there is a soft spot in my heart for Denny Cove...
I was first taken to Denny Cove 5 years ago by a friend, fellow Atlanta climber, and climbing developer Dave Wilson. At that time, Denny Cove was amidst its prime development era. Dave and his crew taught me how to bolt and I developed my first route - Kids Eat Free 5.13d. Anyways, we spent some great times at the Buffet Wall before the masses arrived. Dave was fighting to get back into shape and Home Cooked was his goal. As we established more routes at Denny and other Chattanooga areas, Dave embarked on 'The Road to Home Cooked'...slowly working his way back up to the grade ticking various other 5.12 classics along the way. Dave once allowed me to top rope it maintaining his ability to keep his red tag on the route and claim his first ascent glory. I fell and didn't return to the route until years later after a mutual friend of ours 'snaked' the route from him long after Dave's allotted time to do the route had expired. Not remembering anything about the route, I claimed some poor version of an onsight of Home Cooked on an enjoyable spring day.
Home Cooked is a unique route for the south offering great consistency, movement, and holds not typical of the south. You almost feel as if you're climbing on limestone! Go do it!
When to Climb: Summer and winter are best months for climbing on Buffet Wall at Denny Cove. During the winter, the wall gets full sun, and during the summer, it's in full shade. Look out for the poison ivy though! Spring and Fall can be great but tricky. If it's hot or cold and the sun hasn't moved in front of or behind the cliff yet, you could burn or freeze!
Learn more about Denny Cove over at the Southeastern Climbers Coalition!