Named after a Japanese Samurai Sword, The Otaki is one of La Sportivas newer shoes that is precise, supportive, and structured. La sportiva describes the Otakis as an ideal shoe for climbing at the crag, in the gym, or out bouldering. With improved construction methods this shoe fits snug while remaining precise and sharp with great edging capabilities. The Otaki features a velcro closure so you can really dial in your volume regulation and eliminate empty volumes and rigid zones within the shoe. The Otaki incorporates an S-heel - which helps to maintain perfect torsion stability while increasing performance for heel hooking.
As far as sensitivity goes - The Otaki has 4 mm XS Edge rubber (which is Vibram’s stiffest compound). This shoe may lack a bit in sensitivity and the ability to adapt to climbing surface irregularities.
What the Otaki may lack in sensitivity, it makes up for in edging capabilities. By incorporating La Sportivas P3 system - which is a plastic insert under the toe box that helps to maintain a slight downturn in the shoe - This shoe creates a very stable edging platform.
Fit and comfort
The overall fit of the Otakis can be described as having a wider toe box, a sufficiently narrow heel that fits snug, and with its velcro closure straps it has a wide range of tension adjustability. This shoe fits wider feet well and with the strap system it is even easier to customize the fit of the shoe. The inside of the Otaki is lined with a microfiber upper that softens in time increasing the overall comfort. These shoes do stretch minimally while they break in, so be sure to take that into account upon purchase.
The Otaki is a terrific all around shoe that really stands out in the edging category. Best for slightly overhanging sport routes and bouldering this shoe is a great choice for climbers with slightly wider feet that want an extremely well made shoe with quality construction and comfort right out of the box.